The substitute split pin used to hold in place the repaired release button of the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding.
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7tm binding repairs

This post is about 7tm bindings and the DIY repairs I have made.

My beloved 7tm Power Tour XR Telemark bindings have been so wonderful to ski on for so long that I have worn out some critical components. I thought that the repairs might interest some other Telemarkers who have used and loved their 7tm’s as much as I have. I should say I also have the simple red model 7tm’s and I also make some comparisons between the two similar bindings.

7tm Telemark bindings. Simple bindings (left) and alpine tour with step in function, climbing bars and power bars that move the flex point of the ski boots further back (right).
7tm Telemark bindings. Simple bindings (left) and alpine tour with step in function, climbing bars and power bars that move the flex point of the ski boots further back (right).

As a newbie, initially, I had the simpler bindings on my first set of Telemark skis. I started to learn real Telemark turns with other keen Telemarkers. I confess that I purchased the second set with the step-in function so that I could keep up with the crowd. At the same time, the power bar option came with the newest binding. Without much thought, I fitted them and as the saying goes, “the rest is history”. They made the turning so nice that I have never considered removing them. However, when forced to go back to use the bindings without power bars, I really miss them.

I provide a context to my need for the repairs. I would not describe my skiing as particularly aggressive or hard, just persistent. At ~75 Kg and mature age (about 20years older than 50year old knitted ski suit onesie in the video below. “You do the calculation!”

I keep my toe release setting so low that it is almost off the scale on the window. I like it that way and never begrudge an occasional release and have all my bits still connected in the original place without any pins or prosthetics.

I have mainly used Scarpa T1 boots. I like lots of tight linked turns and I keep my skis rather too close to each other. This fault is clearly the contributing factor for failure that is the subject of the first repair (also displayed in the video below). “I am not blaming you Mr. 7tm.”

Here is a video of me skiing in my beloved onesie that was knitted by my Mum.

I have consistently used the 7tm power bars (love them). I like how they make the bellows more active during turns and possibly contribute to the second failure/repair that I report on.

Even though I have two pairs of bindings I mainly use the ones with the power bars on multiple sets of skis by fitting extra binding plates to those skis. Those skis are fat and on the heavy side and have been just about worn out by a lot of use with the bindings being switched between both pairs (or maybe 3 pairs) of skis.

7tm binding repairs

Worn out nuts

The alpine tour binding has a pivot pin at the front of the binding that allows the boot and binding to swing freely when required by rotating an actuator leaver under the binding plate. The rubbing of the inside nuts on these pivot pins against the opposing binding and ski edges during my skiing caused the original nuts (and the threads below) to wear away.

I fixed the problem by replacing the original pins with quality stainless steel bolts (with Allan key heads) and nuts from (BJ Bearings type store). I used an angle grinder to grind a suitable flat on the thread end of the bolt so that it could fit through the round hole with a flat side in the binding. I used nylon packed locking nuts on the other threaded end of the bolts (outside of binding). I haven’t currently got a photo of the originals bolt and nut, but here is a photo of the replacement bolts heads and they are slowly suffering a similar demise.

[Add a photo of the original worn bolt]

The worn bolt head on a substitute alpine tour bolt on a 7tm Telemark bindings.
The worn bolt head on a substitute alpine tour bolt on a 7tm Telemark bindings.

The replacement bolts and nuts worked perfectly, but after much use (or continued abuse) they are also wearing out but will be cheap and easy to replace. “Alas, according to our beloved Norwegian Telemark Master the quality of my Telemark stance has not improved.”

Alpine tour release button

The alpine tour binding of the 7tm binding has a strong rotary button device with a mushroom head that holds the binding down for Telemark turns. The button head has a flat side cutaway on it. When this missing flat section is rotated toward the keeper plate, the binding is allowed to hinge forward without any resistance for alpine touring.

In my case, a portion of the button broke off and the binding was free to hinge forward all the time. “Luckily this breakage happened towards the end of the last day of a three-week ski trip to Japan just as a virus that the world would later call bloody Covid 19 was spreading out of China and making us have a hasty retreat homewards.”

I replace my bindings with my old red 7tm s and skied for a few more hours. This switchover made me realize how good the power bar effect was and how much I missed this feature when it was absent.

The fix for the problem was to remove the button and weld some metal back on to replace the missing portion of the button. Then I carefully ground the metal to make the button the same shape as the original. Removal of the button was very difficult. It took me considerable time in a well-equipped workshop to remove the hardened pin that locks the actuator arm to the button. I even needed to grind a customised drift punch to complete the removal of the fine pin.

The repaired mushroom head of the release button of the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. The lower more shiny segment (~7:00-8:30) was the section that I replaced.
The repaired mushroom head of the release button of the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. The lower more shiny segment (~7:00-8:30) was the section that I replaced.

A more serviceable button

When considering the reassembly of the binding, I thought that an alternative holding pin such as a split pin (of the same diameter as the original pin) would make a simple substitute. It would be ugly (but unseen). However, it would be easy to remove with a simple multitool any time in the future.

The substitute split pin that I now used to hold the repaired release button in place on the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. The loop or head of the split pin needs to be squashed to clear the rolled edge of the binding keeper plate.
The substitute split pin that I now used to hold the repaired release button in place on the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. The loop or head of the split pin needs to be squashed to clear the rolled edge of the binding keeper plate.

A more field serviceable button

While repairing the button I realized that there was plenty of button head available. The only problem was that the clever actuator arm would not allow the button to rotate to allow its use in an emergency.

With a field removable split pin, another unused part of the broken button can be rotated into position to effectively lock the binding down. A 4mm dia bullet head nail can be used as a simple keeper for the button and the nail head gets caught in a groove in the binding so that it can not fall out. It could be easily positioned or removed with a backpacking multi-tool (or strong hands) such as used for the removal of the split pin. This would allow me to keep skiing or get back to base (or complete a skiing holiday) with the full telemark function but without an easily switchable tour mode.

A nail used as a substitute pin to hold in place a broken release button of the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. It allow a field repair to be done to keep skiing of a button should break.
A nail used as a substitute pin to hold in place a useful portion broken release button of the alpine tour 7tm Telemark binding. It allows a field repair to be done to keep skiing if a button should break.

I have modified the other binding to work with a split-pin so that it is ready for field repair. This is just in case it should fail (before I do). It has earned just as many turns as the other binding or my other leg.

Maybe someone will come up with a way of turning the nail into an actuator that can switch between tour and Telemark modes while on the skis?

Ski slutting

I have already mentioned how the 7tm bindings allow me to swap the binding over my quiver of skis. If you ski with other people who have 7tm bindings, as I often do then there is another fun aspect of the binding. We are able to rapidly swap over skis and try out other skis while retaining our own release settings. It provides an excellent opportunity to try before you buy or trade skis.

Tim

There is an interesting, 7tm binding forum topic on ski.com.

You may also be interested in my DIY glide wax and pocket applicator or Glide compounds that can hide in your toiletries.

If you are really backcountry ski-crackers like me, you may be interested in my DIY breathing polyester pyramid tent to keep you drier at night, a tiny 400g wood stick fired backpacking tent stove to keep you warm and cook your dinner, improved DIY telescopic roll up stove pipes and a DIY stove jack to make it all light and safe.

8 Comments

  1. Hi Tim!
    Thanks for the good info! I picked up a pair of Black Diamond Zealots with 7tm Power Tours on them and have been enjoying them and trying to learn more about setup and functionality of the bindings. I’ve been looking around the internet for a user manual and have only found what looks like the first page of a larger document. You don’t happen to know where I could locate one do you? Also curious if you know of any source for the optional ski brakes, as I don’t have those on my bindings and would love to find a pair.
    Cheers,
    Scott

    1. Author

      Hi Scott, Thanks for your interest. Can’t help with a user manual. I had to learn from experience and ski friends. For what it’s worth, I set the safety release very much lighter than the gobbledegook instructions indicated and have had no regrets. I inserted the power bars to provide heal lift resistance and love the extra control that these give me in weighting the front edges of the skis during turns. I have not found suitable ski breaks that fit well (nor have my multiple ski friends who have the 7tm bindings). I like to use ski tethers anyway as they make it much easier to retrieve the skis from deep snow and I think are a must when riding chairlifts. Sorry, I can’t be more help. Tim

  2. Hi Tim, I had the same issue with the button breaking (twice). I’m not a heavy skier and this happened on easy terrain. First time a button broke, I had a spare part from a defective binding I first received when purchased. But know the other ski binding button broke. Did you repair last? I’m sceptic it will break over and over. These where very pricy compared to other bindings. I’m starting to regret my purchase, although I love them with all the functionalities (step-in, walk-mode, release, dynamic response, etc.). Let me know.

    1. Author

      Hi Nicholas, Thanks for your questions. Very timely as they remind me to update the post.

      My answer is a little mixed. The button that was repaired with welding did last for a couple of seasons of very active skiing. However, in the season just gone, it broke along the old welding repair line. Thankfully, I was able to put my contingency plan into action. This allowed me to keep skiing with full Telemark functionality, using another part of the button. I think the real solution would be to purchase some replacement buttons ( or have then made locally) so that we can carry spares for field repairs. However, the split pin arrangement (or equivalent) would need to be set up for the repair to be done in the field, as it is not an easy job otherwise without workshop tools etc.

      Like you. I love the feel and functionality of the bindings and don’t want to part with them and will do what it takes to keep them working. I do use them a lot as evidenced by wearing out two sets of pivot bolts. So in this way, their cost is worth it and the safety release is invaluable for an active skier such as me who has an old secondhand body that also wants to keep skiing. I ski with the power bar (I think you call it dynamic response) engaged permanently. Do you do the same? I think that the forces that this mechanism transfers to the button is probably the cause of the breakage. Nevertheless, I would not want to compromise that dynamic feel that they provide while Telemarking. After all, Telemarking is a noble pursuit that should rise above mundane things like money, so have no regrets.
      By the way, if 75mm boots and bindings are going extinct, we all will have the cost of NTN bindings and boots as the alternative. I think they are fantastic for resort skiing, however, they lack that feel for real backcountry skiing.

      I hope this helps. Tim

  3. Hi Tim,

    You have a great source of shared wisdom here on your site; for that—many thanks.

    Regarding 7tm specifically, I’m in the process of upgrading my 2008-ish Power to Power-Tour. My bindings have the optional brakes on my 80-underfoot K2 World Piste skis.

    I’ve noticed that the tour actuator interferes with the bent portion of the brake torsion spring on my left ski. The brakes are ambidextrous, so there’s no option to move the brakes or bindings from one ski to another to avoid this problem.

    Do you use brakes? Have you seen a problem like this? I can provide a photo if you’re interested.

    Many thanks again for the wealth of information on your site.

    1. Author

      Hi Tom, Thanks for your kind comments and interest in my tinkering. I have not used the ski brakes as I use my DIY tethers as they make finding the ski easier in powder when they release.

      Please provide a photo. Even if I can’t come up with a solution someone else might.

      Regards, Tim

  4. Firstly, I would like to commend you on all that you’ve posted about the 7TM binders. There is very little information about them and it’s been amazing to read what you’ve submitted. Completely the most thorough and involved review and repairs on the net. I’ve just managed to buy an old pair of Karhu Jak skis with skins and the 7TM all mountain (red) binders. I’ve been skiing 22 Designs’ AXL tour binding. I have a question if you’d be kind enough to answer. I haven’t discovered anyone else who seems to know more. Is it possible to convert the All Mountain binding to the more active Power binding? Do I only need the heel springs? Or are the parts incompatible. They look quite similar in pictures but as this is an older, and uncommon, binder I’m having issues discovering resources. Thanks for the help!

    1. Author

      Hi Joe, Thanks for your interest and kind comments. It is nice to know that my gobbledegook is appreciated. As far as I know, there is no ‘off-the-shelf’ solution to get that extra power binding effect that you are looking for. When I started Telemarking (at mature age), I did not have a clue but the red 7tm bindings allowed me rapidly have considerable control over my skis during rapidly changing turns (that I now would not call proper Telemarks! Some would say they are still not proper! Here is a Little Video, you be the judge). Anyway, I put a little anchor behind my boots that limited the heal rise and it helped a lot. It had a velcro band around my ankle/instep and a breakable band of fishing line between this band and the anchor point on the ski (for safety). It worked well and helped with my rapid sking/turning progress. Then on a powdery ski day, the velcro stopped working when it got filled with snow, and I found that I didn’t need it anymore.
      I too would like my old red 7tm to be more active, so I will have to give it some more thought. Maybe someone else will have a method?

      Can you put a photo of your bindings in a comment, so that I can be sure that they are the same as mine.
      Thanks, Tim

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