Spiral roll up stove pipe for dummies
This post describes an alternative open sloppy spiral means of deploying and re-rolling a roll up stove pipe. It is convenient, quick and efficient and avoids crinkle damage that is caused by the conventional method.
The method avoids the skill involved in the telescopic method described in a previous post. However, unlike the telescopic method, it does require the tedious removal and replacement of the many holding rings
The technique is particularly relevant to small diameter flue pipes with narrow seam overlaps that allow the flue pipe to be conveniently fitted inside a tiny tent stove while backpacking.
Note: This is just one little part of a 12 part series on improved stove pipe rolling. You may wish to start at Part 1 as hors d’oeuvres and then taste from the banquet.
Introduction
In a previous post, I have described how a virgin roll up flue pipe can be ‘pulled’ to give a perfect initial formation before ‘burning-the-pipe-in’ with heat.
In a subsequent post, I described how the process could be done more easily with subsequent deployments after heat-reforming. It also described how the process could be reversed by ‘pushing’ the foil back into its coil formation, within its holding, rings for backpacking.
It worked well to prevent wrinkling of the foil, but the deployment process (pulling) for many could be a bit tedious and difficult. This was largely caused by having many foil layers tightly constrained within the small diameter of the flue pipe.
On the other hand, the retraction or rolling up of the pipe buy this method is like magic, easy and a joy to do.
Consequently, this post is about an alternative ‘crinkle-free’ flue pipe deployment and packing method that is somewhat lazy. It uses open, loose, spiralling with a large diameter to make a crinkle-free transition between a coil of foil and a flue pipe and back once more to a coil.
To hep to get our mids on a similar track, think of the days when we slowly spread viruses like Covid19 around the world by ocean-liners. The departure was celebrated with paper streamers that were thrown from the ship to the people on the dock side. The thrower held the inside end of the ribbon coil and a pretty spiral coil of paper pulled out from the centre as the coil flew down.
Many readers will be too young to know about this fun and some, unfortunately, maybe too old to be able to remember it. So the pulled out spiral of sticky flypaper may be a better analogy, but even it is rather dated now.
Safety note: The similarity of the paper spiral analogies ends here. An accidental uncontrolled release of a spring steel tape measure provides an approximation of this phenomenon. It has the element of startling speed but it does not have the grunt to do much harm.
A wide stainless steel or titanium foil flue pipe is only as thick as the paper. However, within its many rolls, it will have a feisty propensity to suddenly uncoil itself with considerable energy and speed if not adequately controlled.
When coupled with its sharp edges this projectile vomiting of the spiral could do significant harm to your companions or your tent.
It is important in this state to make sure that the inner layer of the roll does not get bumped to either side as this WILL cause this ejection of the spiral from the coil. In doing so it will cause the crinkle damage that we are trying to avoid as well as other possible harm (As described above).
” I had one such accidental release of a flue pipe over the dinner table while getting some adhesive tape to hold the beast closed. It gave me a big lesson and gave someone else a big fright. No harm was done, but be very careful.”
I also generously ’round’ the corners of my flue pipe foil strips, so that they are less like a weapon. It does not otherwise impair its functionality.
“That was a very long note, but please, it is essential to take good care.”
Just to lighten up a little before we get to the sloppy spiral methodology, here is an ode to the concept of pulling or more correctly coaxing and restraining a spiral of feisty foil out from its energy-rich spring coil form without crinkle damage.
Could a transitional spiral just do the thing?
Control the conversion without noisy crinkling,
A smooth and sneaky flight of foil from its mortal coil?
Yes, if you arrest the unwinding of the spring.
The sloppy spiral crinkle-free deployment method
Uncoiling
Note: Throughout the following steps I describe a solo deployment method that with practice is quick and easy. However, a second pair of hands should make things very much easier if you have the pleasure of sharing your tent or campsite with someone else. Abundant stove heat will be a satisfactory reward for companions or visitors for their effort.
Step 1- The start. This deployment method starts with the tightly coiled flue pipe roll (shown below).
It should have been previously formed into a flue pipe and undergone burning-in or heat-treatment. “The strong new memory of this new flue pipe shape means that the thin foil roll would now, ‘much rather be’ in the flue pipe shape than the roll shape.”
Step 2- Preparing the coil. The next step is to remove the holding rings to carefully allow the coil to expand to about three times its storage diameter. It can be held in this expanded condition with adhesive tape, a ring, spring washing peg or preferably the help of a second pair of helpful hands.
In this state, it has dissipated much of the energy that was stored within the tightly wound coil of foil. “However, there is plenty left to do mischief, so be careful.”
Step 3- the magic spiral ejection. An inside corner of the foil can be held in a portion of a thick bush stick that has a deep split in one end. “This stick is not as good or as smart as most of my winter trekking friends. But let’s face it, it is very patient, does not answer back, make wisecracks and can be made into fuel sticks !”
The purpose of the stick is to gently anchor one end of the foil strip and also to prevent it from rotating. Such rotating would allow uncontrolled unwinding of the spiral that would cause the crinkle damage that otherwise would be associated with the traditional deployment method.
Here is a little ode to your choice of holder of the wayward end of the ejecting spiral;
To hold the spiral could I use a thick split bush stick?
Or a winter trekking friend not quite so thick?
One's possibly expedient, the other dumb and obedient.
If either let go then I'll give them the flick.
Step 4- the magic spiral transition into a pipe. This transition happens spontaneously and instantaneously if you release either end of the spiral. Unfortunately, if this happens it will be fast, noisy and impressive and unfortunately do crinkle damage to the foil.
By contrast, a slow managed release (Still only taking seconds) will make a perfect transition between the two shapes. It will be silent, smooth and simple without crinkle or wrinkle.
Here is a little Instagram video of the method.
Re-winding
“Now if the uncoiling is not enough magic, there is more in the rewinding. If you simply told someone to do this they might say you are mad and that it would make a crinkly mess of the foil.”
The re-winding is just the reverse of the unwinding, but it will be adding energy to the spring. It is started with twisting the foil to form a tight spiral. The end of the spiral is then rolled to form a big ‘cylindrical cup’ into which the spiral is fed or stuffed. “Yes I am mad.”
In this process, the foil has more and more and more energy stored in it as each coil is stuffed in.
“So just don’t slip, as that energy will eject out the spiral again, in the-blink of-an-eye (if you still have one), either side or both in the same time. Then in then in the same blink, it will make itself back into a flue pipe on the ground. It will have a few more crinkles in it and you will have to start again. Also, don’t aim it at your friends or your precious tent. “
‘Once upon a time I did rapid flue pipe coil releases to impress an audience at campsites. But now I know better.”
[Add a funny video of the uncontrolled coil release]
If all my photos and gobbledegook does not make enough sense maybe this little Youtube video might help.
Discussion/conclusion
I initially thought that this loose spiral flue pipe deployment technique would be lazier and easier than my previous tight helical deployments. I expected that it would similarly avoid crinkle damage.
This luckily turned out to be true. However, with experience and fine-tuning, the spiralling turned out to also be very quick as a solo operation. It would be even quicker with two people. Consequently, it should take only a tenth of the time taken to manage the pipe by the conventional crinkly method.
Because of its ease, the spiral method will now supplant the helical method for routine flue pipe deployments. However, the innovative and more tricky helical method will still keep its place in a quiver of flue pipe tricks. It will still be the premium method to do the initial virgin flue pipe shaping and the extra time spent will be justified over the life of the pipe.
Related posts
The following post is about my peek ultralight trekking tent stove after many years of tinkering. It is the reason for refining the roll up flue pipes.
The following post is a guide through my chaotic maze of roll up flue pipe posts.
Tim
So I screwed up my titanium pipe by not reasurching on how to initially make by stove pipe and have a tremondously crinkled pipe.
I ordered a new one and will use my old one for ? maybe wind screens or other parts
Anyway. I am will try to follow your instructions and videos when I get it.
I am nervous -$80 per roll of titanium.
So the helical method is the one I should use for the inital roll before heat treating correct?
Hi Phil, Sorry for my delayed reply as I have been away on an extended camping fishing trip. I hope you have not ‘screwed-up’ another pipe in the meantime. All my forming methods work well for virgin pipes (SS or Ti) and formed and seasoned ones. However, the helical screwing method is probably the easiest for a virgin pipe in the hands of a novice. The help of a patient attentive partner helps a lot! I put the image of the helical screwing as the featured image in the introductory Part 1 post for this reason. The helical method is not so cool when setting up in the snow in bad weather and that is where the spiral methods are best and the seasoned pipe can be formed and rolled up ‘solo’ inside the tent without contact with the snow surface. It is good to practice with cheap 0.1mm SS foil and it is very serviceable and is not much heavier than 0.12mm titanium foil. I have loads of such foil if you are interested. Tim
If it is not too late, I suggest that you use cheap SS foil to practice with and its extra weight is very small and it performs well
Hi again Phil, I screwed up my own terminology. The best method to start with is the open sloppy spiral method that is described in this post. Tim
I’m having a blast reading your posts! I’m just getting started though, so I apologize if I missed it. What thickness material do you prefer for your helical pipes. I need to try this! Thanks!
Hi Justin, Glad you are enjoying the posts. I consider the methods are quite radical, but yours is the first comment thanks. The thickness is 0.1mm. What size pipe are you making? I have a bulk supply of the foil. Please contact me by my contact form (right side of the top menu bar) if you are interested.
Tim