Simple direct connection of power supply to blower fan.

This is a simple USB plug is a two-pin connector for laptop fans as used in my blower stoves. It is, cheap, robust, ‘repairable in the bush’ and compatible with the existing cables and sockets on the laptop fans.

The laptop fan cables are designed for the gentle static environment inside a computer and not that of a campsite. I had one bad experience of the fan cable pulling the printed circuit connection off the plastic fan housing. This luckily was toward the end of a 4 day overnight Easter walk. I now anchor all fan cables to the fan housing to prevent this from happening. However, I still needed a better way of connecting the USB power to the fan power socket.

I also wanted the electrical system to support a small elevated LED light for illumination of the cooking at night time. For more details on the lighting module please see  LED Lighting.

I have tried a variety of commercial connectors but none have met my requirements, so I have settled on a DIY ‘fang fitting’. This fitting is crude but light and robust (“bushwalking boot proof!”). It has two copper pins that mate with the fan socket. The positive pin is slightly longer than the negative one so that it can be identified correctly for connection to the red wire (positive) on the fan socket.

The copper pins are strong and are soldered to the USB power cables and are separated by a tapering cane insulator and are bound together with whipping cord at the same pitch as the fan socket. The whipping and tapering cane is extended onto the power cable to form a soft transition from the stiff plug ‘handle’ to the flexible cable. This fang fitting is a little crude looking. It is designed to be left in place, connected to the fan cable socket, for the duration of an extended walk. This is to avoid its loss and to maintain polarity.

“In my earliest designs I left the fan connected to the battery and used a switch on the battery box to stop the fan. Although this was a convenient feature while cooking, one time I had made a big shared pot of soup for lunch on a cold day and found out to my dismay at dinner time that my fan had been quietly running in my backpack for some hours (left on or bumped on). Luckily there was still enough power in my spare batteries to finish the trip. “A disconnected battery is the most secure one when not in use.”

The fan’s cable is supplied with a little ‘two-pin socket’ that is designed to mate with protruding soldered PCB pins on a motherboard of a computer. These little fitting have stood the test of time during my many adventures. With reasonable care they are; suitably robust, simple to connect and make good electrical connections. They are also quite good for quick fault testing, and jury-rigging with alternative connections and power supplies (wires, pins and sticky tape etc).

Example of the electronic components that must link together when using the Blower Stove with a LED cooking light and a 18650 battery USB power pack. From left to right; blower fan with manifold, shutter and fixed cable with two-pin socket, USB power supply,  power supply cable with USB A socket & ‘fang fitting’ plug, LED snorkel light with 3.5mm jack plug and lastly, lighting module with two-pin socket (on long stiff cables) and an assembly with two-pin outlet socket+two pin inlet plug and 3.5mm jack socket for LED light.

Lastly, removing the USB A plug from the power supply can be used as a switch to turn off the fan (another excellent switching option is discussed below).

“On the first day of an 8-day walk, I unknowingly lost the plug and cable behind a log that we sat on it after boiling water for a lunchtime cup of tea.”

After this mistake, I designed the cable to be semi-permanently connected to the blower fan by the ‘fang fitting’, so that leaving it behind or lost is very unlikely.

Simple direct connection of power supply to blower fan. The USB A plug is used as the switch and while cooking it can be partially withdrawn to stop the fan but is ready for quick insertion to start stronger heating again. The two cables should be left joined together (connected to the fan) when packed up to reduce the risk of loss.
Power supply connected to lighting socket and then to the blower fan and ready to receive snorkel LED light when it gets dark.
A fully connected system with LED snorkel light plugged in.
A 3.5mm jack plug to ‘Fang fitting’ (the small black component in centre front) is used to connect the  Aldi USB power pack to the fan and/or LED lighting module.
Blower fan and lighting module connected to Aldi USB power pack via 3.5mm jack plug/’fang fitting’, leaving a 3.5mm jack socket available for the snorkel light.

The LED light can be turned on or off by it’s insertion or removal from the jack socket. The lighting module can also be used independently as a small light when the fan is disconnected (e.g. as a tent light).

Addendum. Now I also protect the blower fittings from damage by making a single assembly of all electrical parts. This means that there is no need for any significant movement between them when they are moved. The components can still be disassembled for convenient compact backpacking inside the stove body and pots.

Simple Fiddle Free Stove perched on a rock. The power supply (blue) is inserted into a fine stainless steel tube (silver) that is welded to the fan manifold. This means that the whole blower assembly, including cables, connectors and power supply are one unit and this provides protection to the cable from damage when moving the blower in the camp, particularly in the darkness.

I have made a further refinement of the electrical system that avoids the need to remove the USB plug as a ‘switch’. The switch is described in another post (pulse power supply to extend battery life).

Tim

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