Ceramic nozzle, discoloured, but still effective, after being left in hot wood heater coal bed (by accident) for a day.

DIY refractory from aluminium foil

A simple method of making DIY refractory from aluminium foil and sodium silicate.

I chanced upon this refractory while attempting to use DIY sodium silicate as a refractory glue to stick onto aluminium cooking foil. Well, it certainly became very good refractory glue, but to my surprise, it fizzed, bubbled, got very hot, blew off hydrogen gas and tuned into new refractory material.

I reported on this refractory and many others in a rather large DIY refractory post where it may not be found. So I am revisiting it here with a few more ideas as I think it deserves its own post. I hope that this simple and versatile refractory get the attention that it deserves, through the SEO process, so that it can be added to the refractory toolkits of those who tinker with fire.

This DIY aluminium refractory is most suited to situations where it can be put or pressed into a cavity between two surfaces in order to expand to fill or seal a void and form a strongly bonded refractory fill that is very lightweight.

The DIY refractory aluminium and sodium silicate

The silicate render. The DIY sodium silicate used in this refractory is quite alkaline and its preparation is described in the original DIY refractory post. I make a sodium silicate render with this Recipe; 100g DIY sodium silicate concentrate, 10g baby talcum powder (2 tsp.), 9g iron oxide ( Concrete coulouring pigment 2 tsp.) and 40g water. The quantities of each are not critical and the sodium silicate/water ratio will vary according to the strength of your particular concoction of silicate.

The aluminium foil. There are many ways to shape and prepare the foil to make it into the refractory depending upon the task. My most popular method is to coat the foil with a brushed layer of the above render (An old tooth brush works well). Then I fold the foil sheet over on itself and apply more render and then fold again. When the desired shape is achieved, I render the two remaining surfaces with render before the foil sandwich is rolled up around a fitting or simply stuffed into a void between two fittings (or a mixture of both).

Micro oil injector filled with aluminium foil/sodium silicate DIY refractory. The chemistry of the reaction is shown and explains the observation of a flammable gas (hydrogen) issuing from the refractory material as it spontaneously cured.
Micro oil injector filled with aluminium foil/sodium silicate DIY refractory. The chemistry of the reaction is shown and explains the observation of a flammable gas (hydrogen) issuing from the refractory material as it spontaneously cured. The fate of the silicate component is a little less clear, but I suspect that some of it may react to become sodium alumino silicate after exposure to very high flame-like temperatures (as discussed later). The outer skin of the fitting is made of a ring of paper-thin stainless steel foil which could easily be crushed. On the other hand, the light and foamy aluminium refractory fill that has been formed inside this skin is delicate and could easily be frittered away. However, when combined together they can become very strong and resilient.

Aluminium refractory reaction time. The initial reaction between the silicate and the aluminium is slow at first and gets quicker as the exothermic reaction gathers pace with the generated heat. Consequently, only a small amount of aluminium foil should be prepared for placement before the reaction progresses too far. “When left alone too long the prepared aluminium laminates will blow up like puff pastry pillows with hydrogen gas and be difficult to manage. So no naked flames unless you want some extra heat!”

Slowing the aluminium reaction speed. The reaction can be slowed somewhat by less vigorous brushing of the render and more particularly by not including the aluminium oxide grits in the render. “I think these actions slow the eventual destruction of the protective oxide film on the aluminium foil that then causes the reaction rate to rapidly build up. Fewer layers of aluminium in the refractory laminate also slows the reaction, presumably because there is less build-up of heat.

Speeding the aluminium reaction time. Adding some aluminium oxide (fine automotive ‘sandblasting’ grits) to the render and more vigorous brushing can greatly speed up the reaction. Also, the crinkling action of stuffing the aluminium/silicate composite into its final resting place or void also speeds up the reaction*.

“Bringing a butane torch to play on the new refractory makes the ultimate accelerant. As a bonus, there will be a display of hydrogen combustion and the sweet rose perfume of from the baby powder. That’s if it is not overpowered by the smell of burning hair! I think this is another wonderful example of ‘being born in fire to survive in fire.”

*Note: As with some of my other refractory materials, I am learning that the more obvious reaction of a refractory mix into a solid item is just the start of the journey for most refractories. Most undergo substantial chemical, physical or phase changes during deliberate firing to high temperatures or exposure to those temperatures during use. Such changes are often invisible to us but are beneficial. A virtue of this refractory is that it instantly becomes stable and fire-ready once heated to a moderate temperature of about 200C. Then it can withstand the heat of forced air charcoal combustion.

Layering up the aluminium refractory composite. As with all good DIY tinkering methods, this refractory is very tolerant to being layered up with successive batches of the refractory. The fresh material bonds well to the older material that has just ‘set up’ or has been cured at high temperatures.

This means that if there is insufficient refractory composite to fill a void, or the composite does not expand as much as expected then an extra batch can be made and added sooner or later. It also means that a small amount of the composite can be used to pack around a component that is held in a precise location with a jig. After a quick flaming and a fast set-up of the composite, the jig can be removed and the rest of the void can be filled with more composite.

Lastly, where the light weight of a refractory component is critical, it means that very light and foamy refractory can be formed in the middle of an item and the exposed faces can be made much stronger with the denser refractory to protect the inner core.

Aluminium refractory curing. The first stage of the refractory composite curing process happens by itself. and the liquid sodium silicate first goes to a toffee texture and then eventually to a solid.

During the liquid phase, hydrogen is produced and some of this forms bubbles in the liquid phase and will cause the black liquid to spew out excess foam. Eventually, the liquid will harden with many bubbles trapped in the matrix, leaving an ultralight refractory.

The next phase of curing requires an input of external heat. If heated hot enough the silicate seems to turn into a glassy state.

The density of packing of the aluminium refractory. If the coated aluminium composite is packed in lightly it will expand considerably and become a very lightweight, delicate and thermally insulating refractory with less strength. It can be packed in more tightly to give a denser and stronger refractory. In either case, the void will be filled and probably have an overflow of bubbly silicate refractory foam.

Ceramic nozzle, discoloured, but still effective, after being left in hot wood heater coal bed (by accident) for a day.
A stainless steel nozzle with a non-return flap. The core of the nozzle is formed from expanding aluminium refractory. The sloping closure face for the flap has been easily ground flat with sandpaper. The remnants of hydrogen expansion bubbles can be seen on the cut face. The device has been discoloured, after being left in a hot wood heater coal bed (by accident) for a day or more. It was discovered while removing ash to put in my compost. However, it was undamaged and is testimony to the refractory nature of this refractory that is made from aluminium cooking foil and sodium silicate.

Aluminium refractory finishing. The foamy cellular nature of the refractory means that excess foam that leaks during the process can easily be removed with sandpaper. Sometimes a stronger finish may be required, so I find that the same render, with a little extra aluminium oxide added, makes a compatible and mechanically strong hot face that is easy to apply.

Refractory nozzle mad with aluminium foil and sodium silicate, finished with a hot-face render of aluminium oxide and sodium silicate.
A fine stainless steel nozzle and adaptor. The void between the two components has been filled with DIY aluminium expanding refractory that was made from aluminium cooking foil and sodium silicate. The light and bubbly refractory material has been finished with a dense hot-face render of aluminium oxide and sodium silicate.

Compressive strength. The light and foamy nature of the aluminium refractory means that it can be crushed or frittered away when it is not contained within a protective shell. However, when a flimsy shell is filled with the refractory, together they become immensely strong and rigid.

Why is iron oxide in the mix? Although refractory, iron oxide has no special refractory properties in the mix (as far as I know). It has two purposes for my applications. Firstly, it pigments the sodium silicate liquid refractory mix so that it is easy to judge the depth of cover when applying the render.

The second reason is that the resulting dark refractory colour is highly emissive and is great for maximising the radiant heat that is emitted by tiny winter cooking stoves. “As a bonus extra, its colour transformation from dark grey to reddish colours indicates where a hot device is getting the hottest. It leaves a heat map over time.”

Why is baby powder in the mix? The talcum powder is brilliantly fine, is safe and pleasant to use and is about as refractory as asbestos without the risks. Consequently, I use it as a refractory filler to increase the viscosity of the render so that it can increase the application depth during brush rendering while minimizing ‘running’.

The refractory reactions

When I first posted on the aluminium refractory, I thought that the reaction was simply aluminium reacting with sodium hydroxide from the alkaline sodium silicate to produce aluminium oxide* with a melting point of 2,072C. The equations are scratched onto the first photo above from some time ago.

Then I thought that the aluminium oxide simply became cemented with some silica gel crystals (MP 1,710C) that came from the degradation of the silicate. “In other words, I thought that this refractory was simply aluminium oxide glued together in a matrix of refractory silica gel.” However, this is probably not the true story as the reactions involved are more numerous and complex.

*Note: My description of the reaction is probably incorrect as indicated in this reference. They indicate that in alkaline conditions, the reaction progresses to sodium aluminate (anhydrous NaAlO2 or hydrated NaAl(OH)4 or polymerised forms Na2O. Al2O3 or Na2Al2O4). However, in our aluminium refractory reaction, the neutralising effect, on the hydroxyl ions, of the added aluminium and later absorbed atmospheric carbon dioxide probably will drive the reactions toward oxide formation. Hydrogen gas liberation supports this later conjecture.

Aluminium sodium hydroxide reaction. This is the first and most obvious reaction is the formation and precipitation of aluminium hydroxide (or sodium aluminate or whatever) as the aluminium foil reacts with excess sodium hydroxide from the alkaline sodium silicate solution. The early release heat from the exothermic reaction to aluminium hydroxide and the release of hydrogen is evidence of this early reaction. This reaction, by consuming hydroxyl ions, makes the solution less basic and I think this causes the next reactions.

Precipitation of silicates/silica gel. Having made the solution less basic (lowering the pH), the silicate ions become less soluble and start to precipitate as condensed sodium silicate polymers and or as silica gel. This is evidenced by the rapid and total hardening of the liquid refractory mix.

Silicate reaction with carbon dioxide. There also is another very common reaction between sodium silicate and carbon dioxide. “Without quite knowing quite why or how I started to make this reaction happen quickly by putting my beloved bespoke refractory items in the carbon dioxide-rich gases in my wood heater. I had the mistaken belief that the process was just one of drying.” The method dries very well and also greatly accelerates this inevitable reaction with carbon dioxide. I have not found a direct reference to this reaction, but I know the reaction is commonly used in making refractory metal casting molds from sand for casting metals such as iron at very high temperatures.

This article titled; Sodium Silicate Binders for Green Sand Metalcasting Foundry has a nice description of the reaction:

“The basic hydroxyl component of strongly alkaline sodium silicate reacts with atmospheric carbon dioxide which acts as When a sodium silicate solution is mixed on sand and then cured with CO2, complex chemical and physical changes occur that contribute to the hardening of the core or mold. The bonding phase that holds the sand together consists of (1) precipitated silica gel formed as a result of the reaction between CO2 and sodium hydroxide and the accompanying pH change and (2) dehydrated sodium silicate formed by removal of water as air passes through the sand.”

Hill and Griffith

With this in mind, I think that in the aluminium refractory situation, the aluminium rapidly uses up the most of hydroxide from the alkaline render. If there is any leftover hydroxide it will slowly be neutralized by atmospheric carbon dioxide. Consequently, the pH will rise sharply to a point where the silicate will become insoluble and form crystals of various silicates and some water will be held in the crystal structure.

Further reactions and phase changes of silicates with high heat treatment. During the strong heating of the already set aluminium refractory matrix, there will be dehydration and more changes to the crystalline silicates, the formation of amorphous silica gel and at the highest temperatures the formation of silica gel glass. References to this process are difficult to find.

However, I found a paper titled; ‘Phase evolution on heat treatment of sodium silicate water glass‘. It gives what I think is a good description of the changes, that I observe while tinkering with refractories made with sodium silicate as they are fired (or used) at progressively higher temperatures. Here is the abstract from the paper:

“Heat treatment of sodium silicate water glass of the nominal composition Na2O/SiO2=1:3 was carried out from 100°C up to 800°C and the advancement of the resulting phases was followed up by powder X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and thermogravimetry along with differential thermal analysis. The water glass, initially being an amorphous solid, starts to form crystals of β-Na2Si2O5 at about 400°C and crystallizes the SiO2 modification cristobalite at about 600°C that coexists along with β-Na2Si2O5 up to 700°C. At 750°C Na6Si8O19 appears as a separate phase and beyond 800°C, the system turns into a liquid.”

R. Subasri & Helfried Näfe

Well, I have never seen my refractory turn to a liquid at a temperature of 1,000C or more. So I guess that the incorporation of aluminium in the mix may be forming some sort of sodium alumino silicate that avoids this melting.

Ultralight tent stove
An ultralight tent stove that has been richly coated with DIY refractory render to protect the metal from the effect of oxidation at high temperatures. The B-render is made with sodium silicate, baby powder, iron oxide and aluminium oxide and is applied as multiple thin layers. The finishing coat is the A-render without aluminium oxide to leave a smooth finish. The refractory has gone the reddest colour where it is closest to the heat source from the downdraft stick burner that is mounted in the largest hole. After some high-temperature use, the render has become smooth and somewhat shiny. This glazing is limited to a small area the hottest part of the cooktop which usually has a shiny cooking pot reflecting heat back into the surface. “I think this glazing is due to the above-mentioned change from amorphous silica gel into glassy silica gel that occurs at about 800C.”

Possible aluminosilicate formation? In this aluminium-based render, we will have abundant aluminium ions available for reaction with the various forms of sodium silicates, so sodium aluminosilicate (that is common in natural mineral formation) may also be formed during high-temperature firing.

My earlier description of this complex series of reactions was incomplete and probably incorrect, so I thought it would be a good time for a reflective ode about being wrong:

Do we all have the right to be wrong?
The same book be the source of our song?
Real truth is a progressive and evolving thing,
Not dangling on one influential persons string,
Adjust, we must, when the old truth just don’t belong.

Conclusion

Maybe the chemistry theory about the curing of this aluminium refractory is a bit sketchy, but I am sure that I have never managed to destroy it or detrimentally melt it with a butane torch with a temperature of 1,430C or 1970C.” More understanding of the changes that happen in the formation of this aluminium refractory should make its application better, even if that knowledge is imperfect.

I hope this makes a small improvement to our understanding of this handy DIY aluminium refractory and gives the method/s a little more chance to be found by others to add it to their fire tinkering tool kits.

Tim

13 Comments

  1. I just tried something similar, inadvertently. Trying to make the sodium silicate to seal up the outside of a car radiator. Long story why I’m stuck with these cheap eBay radiators, but need to use them due to modifications to the car and they continually fail in the same way-where the cooling lines join the top and bottom tanks. The idea was to pour the solution into a depression in the bottom and top tanks where it will set hard and seal up the joints, solving all my problems forever and I can live happily ever after and never have to worry about the leaking coolant ever again…… In my dreams.

    Had the idea to use the equivalent of the head gasket in a bottle stuff from the outside, but thicker/more concentrated. Made the sodium silicate, applied out to some aluminium and was surprised to see a reaction. Searching for the reaction I came across your comment on Reddit which reminded me straight away that I’ve read about this reaction on your site but completely forgot about it. Your description of the reaction here is probably the most thorough I’ve seen

    After letting it react with the aluminium and setting, I tested it’s adherence and it basically fell off-didn’t adhere at all. Not going to help holding pressure there.

    I also tried neutralising it by reacting with HCl until the precipitate didn’t dissolve back into solution. Thought I was there, applied it, noticed the no more precipitate in the solution and with some heat it continued to react with the aluminium.

    I’m wondering if reacting it with aluminium and kicking off the reaction before applying to the aluminium piece would help adhesion? Have you any other ideas that would help adhesion or any other ideas?

    Love your site and all the information you share. Plus the newsletter is great also.

    1. Author

      Hi Stuart, Glad you enjoy my posts. I would not expect it to work outside a radiator and don’t think it would be a good risk using it inside it either. I think you would be better off with the commercial product. However, I have used fine ground black pepper with a very leaky radiator, after a remote area radiator freeze. It did eventually fill the holes to get me home safely. RTV silicone rubber force into the cracks would be worth a try, if it is not a particularly high pressure radiator. Tim

      1. Thanks Tim. I was thinking silicone also, knowing it adheres well to the aluminium. I was also thinking of aluminium solder, but not sure I can get all the way along the joins and it doesn’t seem to wick along with heat the way lead solder does on steel and copper.

        I’m thinking of thinning the silicone somewhat so it will flow and doing a few layers of it. Maybe adding in some flour for moisture to kick off the curing. Other thought was pulling a slight vacuum on the radiator to draw some of it into the joints that are opening so it will hopefully end up inside those cracks rather than just over the top and hold pressure better that way.

        Be nice if I could just go and buy a reliable radiator and be sorted, but none of the other options available are suitable as I need to modify the mount.

        I will have a play. Appreciate you’re comments, thanks

        1. Author

          Hi Stuart, I agree soldering conductive metal is tricky. It is hard enough under good conditions. Thinning and slight vacuum sound like a good idea. I don’t think you will need to use flour for the acceleration. A little moisture from your breath will do the trick with such thin layers. For the final thick coating, you could use multiple thin layers of cut strips of pantyhose fabric in the final layers. It is very compatible with silicone rubber and will easily make complex 3D shapes, in corners etc, under tension. It can easily be put on top of the freshly applied rubber and the wrapping of the pantyhose strip can be used to shift the liquid glue around to where it is most needed. I cover it with a thin strip of cling-wrap so that the rubber can be massaged with fingers through the fabric and to leave a smooth finish.
          I describe its use in other posts:
          https://timtinker.com/glued-repair-of-adventure-gear/
          and
          https://timtinker.com/rtv-silicone-rubber-oogoo-sugru-kintsuglue-tommy-tape-comparison/

          Good luck, Tim

          1. Thanks Tim. I’ll have a play, but not much room to move between the vertical tubes. Worth trying though.

            While here, I’m confused about how basic the solution ended up. My assumption was that the 2 reacted to form Na2SiO3, especially in an excess of the SiO2 that I had. I figured all the OH was neutralised, especially considering the extra water that was clearly created in the reaction. Your descriptions of the reactions and what’s going on are more thorough than anything else I’ve come across, but I’m still not understanding the very high pH

          2. Author

            Hi Stuart, The pantyhose should thread between the tubes quite well. Along strip of it should cover several tube junctions if I understand your situation correctly. The sodium silicate that I make is very alkaline. When fully reacted with metalic aluminium it should be neutralized when there is excess aluminium metal present.

  2. Hello again! I’ve been messing around with some of your refractories and had some good success, and found some interesting resources along the way:

    Regarding paperclay, Rosette Gault seems to have published the most extensively about it. I like her most recent book, Paperclay: Art and Practice, but if you’re not an artist it’s a bit much. The most important things I read are about mixing, namely that, for an effective mix, to use clay that’s diluted to honey-consistency slip, and paper pulp that has been drained of water but not squeezed, so still pretty slopping. This allows the slip to fully coat the paper fibers. The measurements are all approximate and by volume, similarly 1:1 b/v for refractory purposes.

    Another interesting tidbit I found, perhaps a substitute for sodium silicate for binding (instead of fluxing) soil for refractories, is a cement made from calcined ashes. It doesn’t seem like more or less effort, but is free compared to the crystal cat litter/lye mixture which cost me $25 (I’m cheap :)). And of course fun to make something useful out of tr(ash).
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DP0t2MmOMEA
    The video is wordless, but there’s a detailed description underneath.

    I’ll be trying to make a kind of paper-concrete refractory forge lining in a few weeks, with this cement, soil, and paper pulp. I don’t have exact proportions in mind, beyond some mix of wet cement+soil, plus an equal volume of wet paper pulp. Thoughts?

    1. Author

      Hi Nick, It sounds as though the Rosette Gault mixing method is very similar to that of Brian Gartside. Did your refractory survive repeated firing during use?

      Yes, the Primitive Technology videos are very interesting. I think that as demonstrated, the calcined ashes can make a good cement binder for the crushed pottery. However I don’t think it will make a stable refractory as the chemistry can be reversed when the block is subjected to refractory temperatures in your forge lining. Tim

  3. Cool! Do you think this could be packed into a mold, left to cure, then removed, and maybe painted again with render? Or is it too delicate?

    1. Author

      Hi Anon, Thanks for your interest and great questions. The simple answer is yes, yes and yes. The finishing with painted render is the dull, easy and satisfying part. However, the initial curing is not something that you wait for. It happens quickly all by itself in front of your eyes and gets very hot, gives of hydrogen gas and spews out bubbles of black caustic, liquid silicate (it is one of those back to the school science lab experiences).
      The problem with your proposition will be, getting the delicate item out of the mold as this refractory sticks so well to materials such as steel, stainless steel, glass or other ceramics. It would probably release from a plastic mold, but then the plastic may be destroyed during the violent curing phase! My alternative approach is this problem is to make the mold out of fine SS or titanium foil etc and leave this as part of the finished item. The delicate fill inside a delicate mold can make very light and strong item.
      I am happy to answer more questions if you like, but am packing for some snow skiing trips and my replies may be delayed. Give it a try, good luck, be careful and be entertained by the process and be ready to safely accelerate the the cure with a gas flame. Tim

      1. Thanks for the reply! A process I’m imagining, let’s say for a crucible made of this material, is to make
        a two-part mold of thick paper mache (a few coats of paper bags), two cup shapes, leaving a centimeter thickness between them, that could be burned off. Packing the larger paper cup into a bucket full of sand, pushing one or two layers of aluminium foil coated in the sodium silicate into the inside of the larger cup, placing the smaller cup over the foil with some supports to keep it in the correct position, then filling that cup with sand. My thought is that the hydrogen gas and extra “poof” from the reaction will be able to escape out of the top of the void, to be machined off, the paper molds burned off once the reaction is complete, then the whole thing coated in render. Does this sound feasible, and are there any potential issues you can imagine?

        I will be brainstorming about applying sandcasting and investment casting techniques with this material… For background, I’m a metal (and aspiring glass) artist interested in using these materials for making crucibles and kiln linings. My process is very much materials/process focused.

        I also have some soil/newspaper pulp/sodium silicate refractory out air drying currently. I was able to get a pint of liquid sodium silicate from a local pottery supplier, and pulped up some newspaper by soaking it overnight and then agitating it by hand, though a paddle mixer would be more efficient.

        Enjoy your trip! I’ve gotten a lot out of reading your blog. I’m only an amateur chemist so this is really useful information.

        -Nick S

        1. Author

          Hi Nick, Don’t worry about the duplicate post, I do the same some times. I have trashed the second one, so it didn’t happen. Interesting idea of using paper as a mold. No worries about hydrogen build up as it goes through most materials as though it is not there. I would not use this aluminium refractory in a microwave furnace as traces of unreacted aluminium might give you grief. Also, I am not sure about the strength of your ‘pottery sodium silicate’ as it may not be as thick and strong as the DIY silicate that I use. I must get back to packing for my ski trip, but I would like to hear how it goes and see some photos of your creation when I get back. Tim

        2. Author

          Hi Nick, Just another overnight thought. I think you may be considering melting glass, so please be aware that a sodium silicate refractory may not be suitable as the sodium in it may cause your glass to flux and become part of the crucible. I think it is this fluxing or lowering of the melting point of clay that potters use the silicate for? Tim

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