The formed sacrificial flue pipe guard mounted in the exhaust port of a dome stove.

This post describes the use of a sacrificial guard tube for a rollup flue pipe as pipe adaptor and storage device.

Introduction

The initial purpose of the sacrificial flue guard was to protect the rollup flue pipe from the ravages of the combustion in the hot KISS Stove. This has been reported in A sacrificial guard tube for a KISS Stove. The simple method of fabrication is also described in that post.

Other practical uses for the flue pipe guard tube

Second use. The second use of the guard tube is as an adaptor for various smaller flue pipes that enable the use of lighter and more compact packing of flue pipes for ultralight backpacking. An example of the connection of the tube to the flue pipe is in this short INSTAGRAM VIDEO.

Third use. The guard tube can be used as a substitute device for the flue pipe rolley for safe, clean and convenient rolling and storage of the pipe at pack-up-time while camping under challenging alpine conditions.

The formed sacrificial flue pipe guard mounted in the exhaust port of a dome stove.
The formed sacrificial flue pipe guard mounted in the exhaust port of a dome stove. One end of the ‘snail-tail’ of the overlapped joint stops the guard dropping into the fire dome. The other end forms a stop to prevent the flue pipe slipping down the guard tube. The guard tube can be of uniform diameter, but can also be tapered to adapt to smaller flue pipe diameters. The guard shown in the photo tapers from 36mm at the top where it can connect to a smaller flue pipe to 39mm where it fits into the fire dome.
KISS stove parts packed inside the fire dome.
KISS stove parts packed inside the fire dome in readiness for efficient backpacking.

Related posts in this series are:

The KISS Tent Stove for alpine tent heating
Part 4.- Stove flame guide options
https://timtinker.com/part-5-optimized-retaining-rings-for-the-flue-pipe-on-a-kiss-stove/
Part 6.- Optimized roll up flue pipe seam width
Part 7.- A simple, large, cheap and lightweight blower stove, as a supplement to KISS Tent Stove

Tim

6 Comments

  1. Hi Tim-

    Maybe I missed it, but is there an optimum depth the adapter tube protrudes into the stove body?

    Thanks!

    1. Author

      Hi Brian, No you have not missed anything as I did not wish to add more complexity to the already complex post. Yes and no is the short answer.

      Any depth will work. Generally, the least protrusion gives the hottest stove pipe temperature as it will skim off the hottest layer of stove gas. This in turn results in the strongest stove pipe draft. Consequently, varying this protrusion depth can be used to regulate the burn rate/stove temperature. I suspect that a deeper protrusion will make the stove more efficient (As it does for RMH stoves that have the pipe exit way down low on the bell or fire dome.). However, efficiency is not usually the main issue with such stoves as the little sticks that they burn are abundantly available and the hottest is usually the best. Having stops that allow variable protrusion depths would be an interesting approach. I might do a post on such a device.

      Lastly, the protrusion depth is important for keeping the pipe attached to the stove when the tent is buffeted by winds. You don’t want it detaching during a storm! Consequently, a heat resistant SS foil tie-down is a good precaution for such situations.
      I hope this makes sense. Tim

      1. Thanks Tim, that makes total sense, I appreciate the detailed response. I think I might make a collar of sorts to play around with this after getting more use in with the stove and understanding how to use it better first. RIght now I went with 3cm as it “Looked” about right..I do a lot based upon that, ha! and the pipe stayed in well.

        Here is a pic of my first test burn of the body with internal parts and adapter. I need to make more pipe rings, I ran out of crimps. The adapter is probably thicker than I need, but I thought it wouldn’t hurt, though it was a bear to form.

        It burned ok, really quite slow, but I think the feed tube will really turn the heat up when that is done. Boiled the 1.5 cups of water in about 30 minutes.

        https://photos.app.goo.gl/E9vu5GH6D9wyp1jw6

        Cheers, and thanks again!

        -Brian

        1. Author

          Hi Brian, That is good that I make a little sense. Overnight, I thought that I should have mentioned that the deeper protrusion makes the startup slower and also increases the risk of reverse burning.
          A thicker adaptor is good, and it can easily be shaped by the method shown in this post or something similar.

          Thanks for your photo. I hope you are fitting a stove pipe (that is not shown). Otherwise, the burn will be only a small fraction of its full potential and quite smoky. The addition of the burn tube will improve the burn, but only with a long stove pipe attached, otherwise, it will become the stove pipe (see reverse burning).
          Tim

          1. Thanks Tim. Yes, I will be fitting a stove pipe as well, I just ran out of wire crimps for my rings and couldn’t put one together…waiting for them to show up via mail.

            Appreciate the additional info on the depth of the pipe protrusion, I’ll play around with it once I have all the pieces fabricated.

            Thanks for the feedback on curving the thicker sheet, I’ll try to put something together at some point. I’m considering this one a prototype.

            Thanks!

          2. Author

            Hi Brian, I am surprised that you could boil water without a formal pipe connected. You will be in for a treat when you do connect one! Any old pipe will do the job and will show you the stoves’ potential. Please let me know how it goes.
            Tim

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