Tent stove- a tiny backpacking stove
The KISS simple hot tent stove is the best ultralight hot tent stove in a long line experimental stoves. This glowing 400g stove burns only~400g/h or 7g/min to produce an estimated 1,000 watts of heat for cooking and tent heating with damp bush sticks.
It is much more compact, lighter, efficient and simple than typical batch fed box tent stoves and roll up cylinder tent stoves.
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Introduction to the KISS tent stove
My tangle of many ultralight backpacking stove posts will show that I have had two burning passions or paths of making slow cooking tent heating stoves and fast cooking blower stoves for cooking outside.
Although long ago someone suggested the two threads would merge, it was not until recently that they serendipitously and irrefutable did so in my breakthrough three in one dome stove.
It was an efficient wood stick gasifier that could be used as:
- A hot tent stove,
- An outside blower cooking stove or,
- An alcohol stove.
I subsequently improved the combustion and heat distribution in the stove by simplifying the design and called it the KISS Stove (keep it simple stupid).
Experts will argue that the downdraft burner in my stove is not a true wood gasifier. However, the stoves depend upon making wood gas from bush sticks. Then they burn the gas cleanly and efficiently to provide abundant glowing heat for winter backpackers. “And yes, just like a gas flame, if the flame ‘goes out’ it must be reignited by the operator.” Consequently, I’ll settle for defining it as a quasi gasifier. So here is an ode to the simple KISS hot tent stove burner;
Is it a tiny gas stove or just a fire?
Does wood burn in temperatures higher?
No, it just cooks the wood if it’s understood,
It’s the gas that makes flames in a quasi gasifier.
The KISS stove is so simple it only has two holes. One for a flue pipe, the other is for a fuel tube that cunningly forms an inverted J-burner-quasi gasifier, and fuel stick holder-loader.
The words are complex, but the stove, like me, is simple, so simple that it has no need for all the controls on other backpacking stoves and any fool could operate it.
Mothy The Elder
This tent stove simply produces ‘flat-out’ abundant radiant heat for cooking and body warming and drying for winter adventurers so long as they keep dropping sticks into the fuel port from time to time.
An ode to another intelligent simple hot tent stove design with only two holes (Where is this going………? );
A garden worm only has two significant holes,
They both fulfil quite different but essential roles,
One's for poohs and the others for foods,
An intelligent separation of mouths from assholes.
At first-blush, focusing so much on minimizing the number of holes in a stove may sound like an argument about even less than nothing.
However, if there are more than two holes in a stove there will invariably need to be matching and complex hole covers (that can easily be left behind or lost). All this adds complexity and cost that is best avoided if the extra functionality is not needed.
For DIY tinkerers like me, such holes are difficult and somewhat costly to make in stainless steel or titanium, particularly on curved surfaces. These metals, as hard alloys, are particularly harsh on cutting tools. They require considerable effort in dressing the sharp hole edges that are formed. “The fewer that need to be cut and dressed the better.”
An ode to stainless steel (or titanium) holes.
So, it’s just less than nothing, a missing sort of thing,
Made round in the shape of a ring,
But the cutting's tough and leaves edges rough,
A great effort to make one's in which all fittings swing.
The KISS tent stove
Stove part names
During the evolution and posting of my series of ‘dome stoves’, I may have given my stove parts chaotic, strange or inconsistent names that may not be clear to you. Different stoves often share many components and they often have multiple functions that have changed with time. Please forgive me.
Consequently, I am making a separate post of the glossary of the part names or terms and photos that I use to describe various stove parts in my family of ‘dome stoves’. Dome stove glossary of names and terms. Please use this if you get lost in my terminology.
Stove assembly methods
Similarly, my familiarity with the assembly methods has led to me omitting to describe these steps. Consequently, please see my stove pipe assembly methods. This little Instagram video shows the assembly. Another video shows how the custom cooking pot can be used as a convenient bench or anvil while fitting the stove base on a snow surface or in the bush.
Customised tent stove pipe for better backpacking
For a tiny stove of this size, I used my popular 40mm dia pipe for most of my testing. As an experiment, I tried a 30mm dia pipe in a series of experiments to see if the stove could run a little less hot. The 30mm flue pipe worked very well and much better than I expected.
A tent stove pipe that fits inside a tiny stove
The success of the 30mm pipe made me think that a 37mm diameter might be a good size. It would mean that when it was rolled up it would just fit across the inside diameter of the fire dome of the KISS Stove. This would make for tidy and compact backpacking stove kit.
A stove pipe guard tube
I found that a replaceable guard tube could be put between the stove and the stove pipe so that it could sacrificially protect the stove pipe from heat damage.
A tapered stove pipe guard/connector
I also discovered that the ‘stove pipe guard tube’ could also be made with a taper so that it could also be used as a conical reducer connector to fit with any smaller flue pipe diameter when required. It also had the advantage of being able to be rolled up within the flue pipe foil and not occupy any extra backpack space.
Efficient packing of extra cooking pots
When camping I often share a tent and cooking with ‘long-suffering friends’. This is very efficient and great fun. Having multiple pots that pack efficiently is just great and means that boiling water for hot drinks and soups etc for rehydration can go on while a big dehydrated dinner is being prepared.
Convenient stove pipe deployment
The KISS stove’s stove pipe is exceptionally narrow and is quite ‘feisty’ to form into its stove pipe form. Consequently, I have developed an improved quick method for forming the pipe while camping. Here is a short video of the solo deployment of the KISS tent stove roll-up flue pipe.
Convenient stove pipe roll up
Here is a short video of the solo rolling up of the stove pipe. “It is a little tricky at first, but it becomes easy, especially without the pressure of filming!”
The above red hot KISS Stove photos were taken with this 37mm pipe driving the stove. Consequently, you can see that the smaller flue pipe is a happy compromise for heat output and a pack-friendly stove.
Stove mounting brackets for snow mounting of the KISS stove
With a little more consideration of the design of the simple hot tent stove flue pipe, while writing this post, I decided to include brackets for stove legs. This will be only a very small compromise of simplicity. “Some of the brackets also are needed for the V-wire pot support.” These allow a large dinner pot to be safely used on the stove.
In return, the brackets will massively improve the stoves mounting versatility and fuel stick storage when camping on rocks, soil, deep snow and over a snow pit within a tent.
[Add a photo of the stove mounted in a snow pit]
Various tent stove mounting methods are described in detail in another post (Ultralight tent stove mounting).
The KISS tent stove specifications
Dimensions and weight
The packed stove dimensions are approximately 150mm dia and ~65mm high (~5.9″ * 2.6). With a 1829mm (6′) flue pipe, the weight is~ 400g without the custom cooking pot, ~500g with the custom pot and ~570g with the second light pot. The weight will vary according to the length and features of the flue pipe and the thickness of the flame guide and flue guard/adaptor tube.
Performance
- These specifications are estimates only and will be measured as the ‘real thing’ when I get time:Fuel consumption rate is about 400g/h,
- The red colour shown in the photographs indicates a surface temperature reaches 550 C. I have recently confirmed this with measurements with my new thermocouple & meter,
- Boil time in a small pot (500ml) 6-7 min,
- Refuelling neglect time ~15min depending upon stick quality, moisture/ice content and length,
- Stove startup is easy and takes about 60seconds with a cold start as shown in this short video. Restarting a warm tent stove with hot glowing charcoal in it is much easier and quicker as demonstrated in this short video.
Discussion/conclusion
The new compact flue pipe that packs inside the fire dome is a major improvement in efficiency for backpacking while still providing generously powerful radiant heat.
The inclusion of the V-wire to support the overhang of large pots is a small compromise of simplicity for the sake of safety and to make the stove a practical dinner cooker. Big dinner pots for those skiers with big appetites will always be a welcome option when you have a tent companion/s.
“Even if you are not ‘perfect company’ you are likely to have companions/friends on a freezing night with a blizzard raging if you have the only hot tent! Plentiful hot drinks will make you a hero as well.”
The KISS tent stove design is ultralight and compact. It can provide unlimited comfort and cooking for alpine campers from the clean combustion of misery quantity of bush sticks. Your environmental credentials will soar.
“Your tent visitors will often come bearing an armful of suitable fuel sticks and other goodies!”
The simplicity of this tent stove means that unlike most other tent stoves, it needs no costly or fiddly; air controls, dampers, heat robbers spark arrestors or intelligence to use it. This is because the KISS tent stove is a heat robber and spark arrestor with an efficient inverted J-burner that self regulates the making of smoke and its combustion and the distribution of the heat.
Perfection is attained not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to remove”.
Saint Exupéry
“Those visitors can no longer over-fuel this stove, as much as they may try.”
An ode to the success of intelligent design or a smart operator.
Is it the stove design so simple, boring and elegant?
Or is it the operator so sharp, smart and intelligent?
To burn so well, hot as hell, with hardly a flue smell,
The answer’s in the room like the proverbial elephant.
Here is a little video of an even faster KISS tent stove pipe roll up. It can be used if you have the pleasure of company and the luxury of two pairs of hands.
If this tiny stove tickles your fancy, you may be interested in my latest Larger tent stove for group backpacking camping.
Tim
Addendum 1
The KISS simple hot tent stove can still be packed with a blower stove if required or the blower stove can be used independently.
Addendum 2
As an alternative to the addition of a blower stove burner to the tent stove kit, the tent stove burn chamber can be modified to be both a tent stove and blower stove. This adds a little complexity but it is the lightest option that allow the stove to be used as a tent, blower, and alcohol stove. These stoves all fit in the one tiny packworthy bundle that makes you ready for the weather god to throw anything at you.
Related posts in this series are:
Tim
Hi Tim, I’m very interested in making something like this and I have a few questions:
1. do you see any reason not to use this (while present/monitoring it) inside of a van instead of a tent? having a way to dry out a vehicle when everything is damp would be awesome
2. other posts mention that vertical feed increases reverse burn risk, is there still a lot of risk in this current design?
3. do you have a favourite pot/bowl you use for these?
4. where do you get your stainless steel/titanium stovepipes from?
Hi Seth, Thanks for your interest.
1. I think a stove of this design could be used in a van as you say while monitoring it. In a van it could be considerably safer as there could be a metal pan provided to catch any fallen fuel. This is not so easy while lightweight winter backpacking.
2. The design of this particular stove largely overcame the reverse burning issue as a practical problem. However, although under extreme conditions or when provoked it can still happen. That is why constant frequent monitoring is essential for safety.
It was a sweet and lucky design after lots of trials and failures. The design also can be carefully scaled up without making reverse burning worse. Please see:
A large downdraft tent stove for a pyramid tent
A tent stove from a cookie tin-a one week wonder
An improved oil drum stove
A larger design (in SS) may be more suitable to a van, depending on its size. The cheap stoves made of mild steel drums and cans may be a way of experimenting to find what works and if it will suit you van situation best. Then it could be made in SS. Fuel preparation gets easier with the larger stoves as the sticks can be thicker.
3. Regarding the favourite pot/bowl question, I am not sure if you are talking about a cooking pot to go on the stove or the pot that I make the stove body (fire dome) from. Anyway, I can give an answer to both questions. The stove fire dome is made from custom made stainless steel bowl with a flange formed on it. The matching cooking pot is a slightly bigger custom pot that fits neatly over the fire dome and fittings while backpacking. I also supplement the custom cooking pot with other very light (and cheap) SS pots that nest with the stove and custom pot. These are described in my post Crackpot light cooking gear. I appreciate that this efficient packing would not be so important in a van situation.
4. I have my own bulk supply of SS foil from which I make the roll up stove pipes from. It is 0.1mm thick and is a hard SS alloy. I have a lifetime supply so would be happy to share some with you if you are interested.
I hope this helps, Tim
Tim-
Thanks for the feedback! Yes, it was really chuffing at one point! Sorry, for some reason it wouldn’t let me reply to the comment. yes, I need more practice with it for sure amd I understand the concept of more is better now that you have pointed out the importance.
My adapter pipe is built like that with the slots, I’ll make one for the fuel feed as well!
I dont quite understand the “Tray” to fill a crack somewhere? I understand you think maybe the flame is skirting between the flame guard and the top of the stove, straight to the pipe? That is possible. The top of mine isnt curved like yours and unfortunately the pot itself isnt flat on top. I might make more of an “S” shaped one like yours.
Question, it looks like your flame guard is shaped in a way that it makes the burn chamber much larger than the air flow side, is that just a misconception from the photos? mine divides the stove straight in half.
Also, I saved a milk jug…my wife things I’m crazy, but I’m going to try your drip fire starters!
Thanks,
Brian
Hi Brian, Yes my main burn chamber is much bigger than the chamber that goes back to the stove pipe. It slows the hottest gas for better heat exchange. You are correct, my flame guide has a big foot and is sloped away from the blast area. Makes the chamber bigger, puts the guard further away from the charcoal blast zone, more room for charcoal spread and it can spring up and down to maintain a better seal at the top.
This biscuit tin stove post should help you understand what I am suggesting about integrating a corner with an ashtray to reduce the flame skipping to the stove pipe.
Ash fills the crack at the bottom.
Hope this helps,
Tim
Got it Tim, Thanks! I’m going to experiment with some different flame guides/tray setups and sizes. Appreciate the link, pictures and feedback, Thanks!
-Brian
Tim-
I tried my first burn with the stove and pipe. At first, all seemed well. But I cant keep it burning. I”m using somewhat damp sticks, but started with nice dry stuff figuring once it was going, it’d consume them no problem. All the sticks were the diameter of my index finger or less. I kept having to take the feed tube out and relight it with a torch. then it would run ok for a minute or two, then same thing….any thoughts? It doesnt seem to be getting to the point of charcoal choking…. Thanks for any insight!
-Brian
Hi Brian, From your photos, your stove looks very similar to mine so it should work. By the silver colour of it, it does not look as though it has ever been very hot! I presume you have a flame guide inside? Has the stove pipe got blocked off by dropping down to the floor? My second guess at the problem is air leaking inwards and this would be depriving the burn zone of the essential air for strong combustion. It should burn very strongly and burn damp wood. Test the air leakage out by putting ash, fine soil or crushed aluminium cooking foil in the crack around the gap between the bowl and the inverted lid. My Bento Box style stove had a much tighter-fitting lid than yours and even so its burn improved greatly when I sealed the crack with ash and packed it down. Look at this old Bento Box stove post (the pancake cooking photo) and you can see the ash seal around the lid. Let me know if this makes it better. Tim
Thanks for the insight and thoughts on what to look for. So, as far as the stove pipe goes, I have a reducer/sacrificial pipe built like yours with the “tabs” so it cant slip down. IT currently protrudes 30mm into the stove. Do you think this is too much?
The interesting thing about the lid is the latches on it actually make the lid water tight when the are closed. I tested this prior to the start of the build. So I dont think there could be an air leak there, but I will definitely investigate.
I added some pictures of the flame guard I have inside to my album( https://photos.app.goo.gl/aUcbrEbU4kAjihTEA ). Maybe something is off there? the gap for the exhaust to pass through should be on the upper side of the stove, correct? I extended the bottom of mine the entire length of the burn chamber to thicken up the metal there and hopefully keep from having to use the ash try like you do.
Thanks again for all your time and input!
-Brian
Hi Brian, Thanks for the extra photos. The flame guide hole looks like it is in the right place and of adequate size. The sharp edges are good for creating turbulence and good mixing and combustion of the wood gas.
It does not sound like air leakage could be the problem, but try ash or soil sealing anyway as it is no effort and the metal seal may distort when hot?.
The 30mm pipe protrusion might be just a bit too much. The burn will be much easier with only 5mm.
A video of the stove startup with wood stick fuel would be informative.
I don’t know if you have missed my commentary about cold starting the stove with an added bed of charcoal on the floor of the stove in the blast zone below the fuel burner tube?
Are you using my ultralight fire starters? They can be a great help to get difficult sticks to burn.
I suggest you do this little test. Add a bed of charcoal to the blast zone below the fuel/burner tube and let it spread around a little more. It will behave like the remains of potential charcoal choking that has been naturally resolved, if you understand what I mean you can’t have too much for this testing (or any other time as the stove is designed to self resolve potential charcoal choking. it is a charcoal eater!). (I normally do this when first starting the stove as it gets that ideal mix of charcoal AND gas combustion from the get-go). Light it up with a little alcohol and then add a few portions of the fire-starters described above. I usually do this without the fuel tube in place. The hydrocarbon fuel in the starters will provide the essential gas to sustain a big flame and strong stove pipe draft. Drips of molten plastic, fat tallow or oil can feed the combustion indefinitely so long as there is a bed of charcoal.
It should burn savagely and make that delightful chuffing sound and make no stove pipe smoke when up to a good working temperature.
If that works, add small chunks of cut sticks and see that a good burn continues. This is my desperation method of making my stove work under the most trying camping conditions with wet and frozen fuel and it produces enough heat to warm me and thaw and dry full fuel sticks quickly.
If the above works, quickly add the fuel tube and add fuel sticks in this order: thin dry sticks, thicker dry sticks, and then mixing damp sticks as the burn is established. Loosely fill the fuel tube so that the stove will make wood gas and sustain the charcoal bed.
Remember, the fire starters and thin dry sticks burn quickly and completely and leave very little charcoal while the reverse is true for thick sticks.
Firestarters can be added with the wood at any time to give stogy wood a little helping hand. Also, it is helpful to put the larger (or damp)sticks toward the back of the burner tube (closer to the stove centre) and the smaller ones in front. This means that the easy flames from the smaller sticks will wrap around the larger ones to speed their drying, pyrolysis and combustion. This order also applies to any fire starters that might be used to help damp or frozen wood to burn
If it works correctly the stove will get very hot and change from its silver colour (as in your photos) to an ugly cooked metal colour after turning pretty transitional blue.
In summary, I think I am saying that with a higher set of the pipe and minimal air leakage the design is good. Maybe you have not yet established the crucial glowing charcoal bed. Putting it in place at the startup might get the cycle going. Only use damp wood when the stove is burning strongly.
Please let me know how it goes and capture some video. Good luck, Tim
Hi Brian, I forgot to say that you should also add an ash or soil bed below the charcoal bed to insulate the hot combustion from the metal floor. Good for the combustion and for the floor! The ash layer will form naturally with time, but adding it first is better for a quick startup. I use a shallow sacrificial metal dish made from a bean can lid for this purpose. Tim
Tim-
I trimmed down the stovepipe adapter tube so it only protrudes 5mm into the stove big difference. I’m making the changes one at a time. I was able to get a nice not burn, but still had a hard time sustaining it–I think some of this might just be user error and learning curve. I”m going to add a tiny wood stove type gasket to the cover next to try to seal that up a bit just in case, and when the family has beans keep the can for the ash dish. I’ve got to figure out a better feed tube…it kept sliding into the stove as well and the rings kept falling down. ‘I have a feelign that is why yours is a permanent piece of pipe.
I added a video to my stove build gallery you can check out if you would like. can really hear it burning!
Thanks again and I’ll keep you in the loop.
-Brian
Hi Brian, Great to hear of the improvements. It’s good to do one step at a time. I am still perplexed about not sustaining an easy strong burn? Did you get a good charcoal bed? It should just keep ticking over with glowing charcoal and added hydrocarbon fuel of any type should turbocharger it! Don’t wait for a lid gasket, just use ash or fine soil packing. It works. Beans are good but don’t wait for a family feed of beans, just use any scrap jam jar lid from the rubbish.
Feed tube falling in- A tapered welded tube fixes this problem, but I have a post on non-welded replacement stove parts.
Look at the top and bottom of the first tube in this photo.
It shows the cut tabs at each end that can form stops to prevent it from falling in or another tube on top from falling over. This works for the stove pipe guard tube/adaptor as well as the fuel tube. A similar shallow middle cut can be used to hold the ring up. A stiffer tapered unwelded fuel tube made from discarded SS rubbish bin can also be made so that it will not fall in.
Tim
Hi Brian, Here is a better photo of the actual unwelded fuel tube that does not fall in (sorry I missed this first time). Tim
Hi again Brian, I looked at your great video and the stove is working as it should. Yes, you need to sharpen your fire skills. It has turned that beautiful tell-tail blue colour, but it will go ugly with more success. Nice chuffing sound and clear invisible exhaust. CONGRATULATIONS!
The single big stick is not good fueling. It needs good company for the best burn. Multiple sticks bounce heat onto each other. Even splitting the on stick into two will be much better or four half sticks better still. I hope you get my drift? Additionally, put the big sticks to the back with faster burning sticks in front so that the big ones get cooked quickly.
Australia is blessed or cursed with knarly tough native hardwoods that are brutal on saw blades and woodworking tools. They are plentiful in our low and alpine high country and they make great fuel for us (and bushfires) that produces really good persistent charcoal. I suspect that your northern forests are very different and the sticks might make much less persistent charcoal, but good fuel management will conquer this problem ( I can run my stove exclusively on pine sticks).
A filled fuel tube is best and it will slow the air entry but increase the velocity and turbulence. Better fueling will make the whole stovetop go blue.
The video suggests that flames are skipping directly to the pipe through a small crack. If you make a simple ash pan with roughly folded walls on one corner, it can be put over the crack to greatly reduce this skipping and it will also protect your flame guide. I will be looking forward to a nighttime video of your stove in full flight with its fuel tube filled with many sticks. Tim
Hi Tim. 👋🙂
Im really impressed with the progression of your backpacking stove designs.
been searching for something like the KISS stove, for years now.
that reliability is exactly what i was looking for.
me and a few friends are working on a project to get idiot proof winter heating solutions to the many houseless folks in our city in southern Ontario.
and im thinking of using your KISS stoves design as the basis, but with a bottom and flame guide, cast in refractory cement of some sort to prevent easy theft.
im also thinking of adding a wire mesh cage around the steel pot to prevent accidental burns, with a hinged wire mesh lid to allow cooking access for pots.
let me know what you think?
id love to hear any input you’d be willing to share.
HI Owl, That sounds like a very noble project, but I think the idiot-proofing might be a challenge. I am happy to help in any way. I too have even thought of making a refractory base incorporating a flame guide for bush camping so that the metal ‘pot’ heating top and stovepipe would be the only thing to carry in. Please send me a sketch of what you have in mind. One problem other than theft and vandalism will be rapid rusting if the previously heated metal is not protected from the weather and rain in the home-less environment.
Have you looked at my blower stoves?
https://timtinker.com/blower-stoves-gallery-index/
One of these in cast refractory would be bombproof and almost vandal free if it was made thick enough. However, the user would have to bring their own blower fan and USB power supply. I made one for a local homeless man, but he never came back for it. Maybe I scared him off with all my technobabble. I do hope he found a home.
For an idea of what a refractory stove might look like, I have a post on the stove that I made from a refractory made out of pulped up newspaper mixed with clay. Still, not theft or vandal-proof, but may give you some ideas! If your refractory is cheap it could be made as thick-as-a-brick and very tough. The paper clay takes the heat, but not rough treatment. To make them very cheap the outside could be made of ordinary builders concrete or environmental fly ash concrete in a simple mold. Then a thick lining of the refractory cement could be applied inside it. The bottom of the stove does not get so hot so it does not need a lot of protection as the ash from the fire insulates it.
https://timtinker.com/ceramic-paper-clay-blower-stove/
My latest version does not have a bridge thing over the fuel stick feed hole, but I have not uploaded the photo yet.
I hope this might give you some ideas.
Tim
Hi
I like the concept a lot, but I can’t find information on the flue pipe. I assume it’s titanium, however it would be useful to know dimensions of the material prior to shaping.
Thanks
Joe
Hi Joe, thanks for your comment and questions. I use both titanium and stainless steel foil for the pipes. I increasingly use SS because of its abundance and cheapness.
Regarding the dimensions that will depend on the required pipe length and diameter (or diameters, as one strip can be used for different diameters if needed). I use diameter*pie (22/7) to calculate the strip width and then add extra width to allow a seam overlap.
Regarding the seam overlap width, I often use very narrow ones of about 15mm to make my rolled-up pipes fit inside my small backpacking tent stoves. This overlap is very much smaller than the 50-65mm used by others, but I have found that it works. I tried 9mm overlap and it worked, I thought that I was cutting it a bit too fine when at nighttime I could see light from a flame within the pipe shining light outwards.
If compactness of the rolled up pipe is not a particular requirement, a wider overlap than my prefered 15mmmay be useful if you wished to have an option of say a 40mm dia pipe that could double as a 50mm pipe (with a larger set of rings). In this case, the strip could be about 172mm wide so that the 50mm pipe would have about 15mm overlap and the 40mm pipe would have about 46mm overlap.
I discuss most of these issues in my Twelve Part Post Series on improved roll-up stove pipes and suggest that you read them.
The series starts with Part 1.
https://timtinker.com/improvement-to-flue-or-stove-pipe-rolling/
Part 9 discusses a larger pipe (3,000mm long * ~60mm that is considerably larger than my small ones:
https://timtinker.com/part-9-large-roll-up-flue-pipe-stove-pipe-forming/
I hope this helps.
Tim
Interesting stove design. I see you have a separate blower stove to go in it. Can the blower stove be part of the tent stove without the need for the extra ring thing? Would this save weight.
Hi Sal, Thanks for your comment. Yes, the blower stove can be part of the tent stove and it saves some weight. There is an example of such a stove made for Nick in this Instagram video.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CG1-BpqhKLs/
The cover with Nick showing through is covering the blower stove fuel stick loading port.
Tim